Dimension & Conversion Reference
This reference covers everything on the site that isn't a species page or a joint page — dimension conversions, sheet-goods sizing, fastener charts, finish and abrasive data, and the shop-specification pages that don't fit anywhere else. It splits into a few real groups, and knowing which group a question belongs to is the fastest way to find the right page.
Dimension and conversion pages
This group answers one recurring question in different clothes: what does the number on a tag, a plan, or a receipt actually correspond to in real, measured inches. Nominal-versus-actual pages cover the gap between a softwood board's printed name and its true dressed size — a 2x4, a 2x6, a 2x8, and the rest of the common dimensional sizes, plus the separate 1x-board and 4x4/6x6-post families that lose material differently than the 2x series does. The rough-lumber quarter system covers the parallel hardwood convention, where 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, and 8/4 describe rough thickness before any surfacing rather than a name a mill cuts toward. Sheet-goods pages do the same job for plywood, MDF, OSB, and hardboard/particleboard — nominal thickness against what a real sheet measures, and standard sheet dimensions before a cut list gets built around an assumption that turns out wrong at the store. The metric-to-imperial page and the board-foot-to-linear-foot and board-foot-to-square-foot conversion pages round out the group, covering the unit mismatches that come up whenever a plan, a supplier, or an imported hardware spec is working in different units than the rest of a project.
The common thread across all of them: none of these numbers are things you should estimate from memory once a project's budget or a joint's fit depends on getting them right, because the gap between a nominal name and a real measurement is rarely a clean, round number, and it rarely rounds in the direction a quick mental guess assumes.
Moisture and movement targets
Two pages here answer "where should this wood's moisture content actually be" — by region (the typical indoor equilibrium moisture content ranges across different US climate zones) and by end use (adjusting that baseline for a piece heading outdoors, into an unheated space, or into fine interior furniture that will live in a heated, humidity-controlled home). Neither page tells you how much a specific board will move — that's what the wood movement calculator and the species pages' shrinkage figures are for — these two answer the separate, upstream question of what target moisture content a piece should actually be built toward in the first place, which is exactly the number reading moisture content says a meter reading is meaningless without.
Fastener and hardware sizing
Wood screw gauge sizing, pilot hole sizing, pocket-hole screw length, screw length by joint thickness, and biscuit/domino cutter sizing all answer variations of the same practical question: what hardware size actually matches the material thickness in front of you, rather than whatever size happened to be in the bin. Undersized fasteners in a thin joint split the wood; oversized ones in a thick joint waste holding power and risk breaking through the far face. These pages exist specifically so that decision is a lookup against real numbers instead of a guess based on what looked about right on the last project.
Finish, abrasives, and shop consumables
Wood finish types, finish coverage rates, and sandpaper grit progression cover the materials side of a project that isn't lumber at all but still needs planning — how much finish a given coverage rate actually requires for a project's surface area, and what grit sequence actually removes the scratches the previous grit left rather than skipping straight to a fine grit and polishing over machine marks that are still there underneath.
Cutting and clamping specifications
Saw blade kerf reference and saw-blade tooth-count guide feed directly into the cut list optimiser — kerf width is a direct input to that tool's waste calculation, and getting it right for the actual blade in the saw is the difference between a layout that fits and one that comes up short by exactly the amount shop math you'll use every week shows a cut list can silently lose to the saw itself. Dust collection CFM requirements and clamp-pressure-and-clamping-guide round out the shop-spec group — equipment sizing questions that come up once per tool purchase rather than once per project, but that are just as easy to get wrong by guessing.
Grading and hardness reference
Hardwood lumber grading, softwood lumber grading, and plywood veneer grades explain what a grade stamp or a yard's grading terminology is actually promising about a board or a sheet — how much clear material a grade is expected to yield, not a statement about overall quality independent of that yield. The Janka hardness scale explainer covers the same hardness figure that appears on every species page, in more depth than a single species entry has room for — what the test actually measures, why it doesn't move in lockstep with density, and how to read a hardness number against the specific wear or dent resistance a project actually needs rather than as a single ranked "best wood" list.
Yield, waste, and cost planning
Lumber yield and waste factor guide covers the realistic percentage of rough stock that becomes finished, usable material across different grades and species characteristics — the same yield concept buying rough lumber: what you actually pay for and domestic vs. exotic: cost per finished piece both work through with specific worked numbers. This page is the general reference behind those worked examples — the range to plan a budget around before you have a specific species and grade in hand to run the exact numbers on.
Walking one project through several of these pages at once
A single build rarely needs just one reference page — it's usually a chain of them, in a specific order, and seeing that chain laid out once makes it clearer why the group is organized this way rather than as one long undifferentiated list. Take an outdoor bench built from nominal 2x lumber: start with the nominal-vs-actual page for the sizes actually being bought, since a cut list built against the printed "2x6" instead of the true 1.5" x 5.5" will come up short exactly the way why a 2x4 isn't 2x4 describes. Check moisture content targets by end use next, because outdoor furniture has a very different target than an interior piece, and building to the wrong target means the wood keeps moving well after assembly. Move to fastener sizing once the joinery is decided, matching screw gauge and pilot-hole size to the actual dressed thickness from the first step, not the nominal one. Finish coverage rate comes last, once the finished surface area is known, to figure out how much of whatever exterior finish the design calls for actually needs to be bought. Four pages, four different groups above, used in sequence for one project — which is the normal way this reference actually gets used, rather than any one page being read in isolation.
What's sourced, and what's a stated estimate
Most of the numbers on this reference layer are stable, low-variance figures — a nominal lumber dimension is a published industry standard, a sheet-goods size is a manufacturing convention, a fastener gauge-to-pilot-hole ratio is mechanical, not regional. Where a number genuinely does vary by region, supplier, or year — cost-related figures most of all — the page flags it as a planning estimate rather than letting it sit next to a fixed dimension standard as if the two carried the same certainty. The species pages carry the same discipline for the one field that varies the most there (typical cost per board foot); this reference layer applies the identical standard to anything here that shares the same problem, such as the yield and waste-factor ranges, which are realistic planning bands rather than a guarantee for any specific board or supplier.
How this differs from the explainer pages listed below
Reference pages are built to be scanned for a specific number — a table, a conversion, a size chart — and read in under a minute. Explainer pages, listed separately below this group, take on a broader question that doesn't reduce to a single lookup: why board feet, linear feet, and square feet answer genuinely different questions, how green lumber differs from kiln-dried beyond the moisture number itself, what actually distinguishes a miter angle from a bevel angle. If you're not sure which kind of page you need, a reference page is the right stop when you already know the specific number you're after; an explainer is the right stop when the question is closer to "why does this work the way it does."
Browse the reference pages below, or start with nominal vs. actual 2x4 if you've ever been surprised by what a lumberyard receipt actually charged for. If a project spans several of these groups at once — most do — bookmarking the specific pages a build actually touches, rather than this hub page itself, is the faster habit once you've learned which handful of pages you keep coming back to, project after project after project.
Nominal Vs Actual 2x4
An 8 foot 2x4 comes out to 3.5 board feet once you use its actual 1.5 x 3.5 inch size — a naive 2x4x8 calculation overstates that figure by about 1.52x.
Nominal Vs Actual 2x6
Swap the nominal 2 by 6 inches for the real 1.5 by 5.5, and a joist's on-edge stiffness drops to about 58% of what the label implies — a real 1.73x gap.
Nominal Vs Actual 2x8
A 2x8's actual 1.5 by 7.25 inch section is the worst offender in the dimensional lineup, overstating stiffness by roughly 1.79x — worse than the 2x6 or 2x10.
Nominal Vs Actual 2x10
Stair stringers are where a 2x10's actual 9.25 inch width, not the nominal 10, decides whether enough wood survives above the deepest notch that's cut.
Nominal Vs Actual 2x12
At 11.25 inches actual, a 2x12 is the widest common dimensional size and the one most prone to cupping, since wider boards show far more curl as they dry.
Nominal Vs Actual 1x Boards
1x stock loses the same 25% off nominal that 2x lumber does, but because it's loaded flatwise, that cut makes a shelf sag roughly 2.37 times more than expected.
Nominal Vs Actual 4x4 6x6 Posts
A "4x4" post can measure a true 3.5 inches S4S, a rough 4 inches full-sawn, or something between — three different milling paths share one nominal name.
Plywood Sheet Sizes And Thickness
A nominal 3/4 inch plywood sheet actually measures 0.719 inches — a real 1/32 inch sanding loss on both faces, present on every size except the 3/8 inch step.
Mdf Sheet Sizes And Thickness
Nominal 3/4 inch MDF measures a true 0.75 inches with no sanding-loss gap at all — the press sets its final thickness directly, unlike a veneer glue-up.
Osb Sheet Sizes And Thickness
Nominal 3/4 inch OSB measures 0.703 inches actual while 5/8 inch OSB matches its own label closely — the gap tracks span rating, not a uniform sanding rule.
Hardboard And Particleboard Sizes
Nominal 1/4 inch hardboard actually measures 0.215 inches, a bigger gap than the thinner 1/8 inch step loses — the press sets that number, not a sanding pass.
Rough Lumber Quarter System
Hardwood is sold by rough thickness in quarters, not inches — 8/4 means a nominal 2 inches rough, measured before any surfacing has touched the board yet.
Board Foot To Linear Foot Conversion
100 board feet of actual 1.5x3.5 stock works out to 228.6 linear feet — the conversion only means anything once width and thickness are both already fixed.
Board Foot To Square Foot Conversion
200 square feet of 5/4 decking needs 212.5 board feet — square footage tracks thickness alone, since width times length is already the covered floor area.
Metric To Imperial Lumber Conversion
An actual 2x4 — 1.5 by 3.5 inches — converts to exactly 38.1mm by 88.9mm, since one inch is a defined 25.4mm rather than a rounded field approximation.
Moisture Content Targets By Region
Arid Southwest interiors settle near 4 to 8% equilibrium moisture content, while the humid Southeast runs 10 to 14% — build for the destination, not the shop.
Moisture Content Targets By End Use
Fine interior furniture wants the tightest moisture target here, commonly 6 to 10%, because a fitted drawer shows a moisture-content miss almost immediately.
Wood Screw Gauge Sizing
A #4 screw runs about 0.112 inches in shank diameter and a #12 about 0.216 — each two-gauge step adds roughly 0.027 inches, close enough to call it linear.
Pilot Hole Size Chart
Every hardwood pilot hole in this chart runs exactly one drill-bit step, 1/64 inch, larger than the matching softwood size for the same numbered screw gauge.
Pocket Hole Screw Length Guide
A pocket screw through 3/4 inch stock wants roughly 1.25 inches of length, because its angled path eats into the length differently than a straight screw's.
Wood Finish Types Overview
Boiled linseed oil dries touch-dry in 12 to 24 hours but gives the least water resistance of the nine finishes tracked here, and its oily rags can self-ignite.
Finish Coverage Rates
Coverage across the nine finishes this site tracks spans 350 to 1200 square feet per gallon — over 3x, wide enough to sink any single one-size rule of thumb.
Sandpaper Grit Progression
Tight-grained species like maple show a visible smoothness gain sanded to 320 grit before the first coat; open-pored oak rarely benefits past 220 at all.
Hardwood Lumber Grading
NHLA's top FAS grade needs roughly 83.3% clear cuttings on a board's poorer face at 6 inches wide and 8 feet long — nothing in the grade concerns color at all.
Softwood Lumber Grading
Softwood framing lumber is graded Select Structural down through No. 3 for how much load it carries, never for appearance the way hardwood grading runs.
Plywood Veneer Grades
A sheet graded C/D, commonly sold as CDX, means a C-grade face and a D-grade back — the X there marks exterior glue rating, not a grade level of its own.
Saw Blade Kerf Reference
A full-kerf table saw blade removes about 1/8 inch of wood per cut — forty crosscuts in a single cut list can lose several board feet to the blade alone.
Saw Blade Tooth Count Guide
A 24-tooth blade rips fast and rough because the cut usually gets jointed afterward anyway; a 60-to-80-tooth blade is what leaves plywood splinter-free.
Dust Collection Cfm Requirements
A wide planer can need 785 CFM at the tool itself while a table saw gets by on 350 to 400 — sizing off the collector's own headline number under-collects.
Clamp Pressure And Clamping Guide
A solid-wood edge glue-up needs only about 100 to 150 psi of clamping pressure — past that point you're mostly squeezing glue out, not adding any strength.
Wood Hardness Janka Scale Explained
Northern white cedar sits at 320 lbf on the Janka scale and lignum vitae at 4390 — a 13.7x spread between the softest and hardest woods in commercial use.
Lumber Yield And Waste Factor Guide
Clean, pre-surfaced stock wants about 15% added over a project's required board feet; rough hardwood needing real color matching can run well past 30%.
Screw Length Selection By Joint Thickness
A screw driven straight into a 1.5 inch anchor piece wants roughly 0.75 to 1.0 inches of penetration — half to two-thirds of that piece's own thickness.
Biscuit And Domino Cutter Size Reference
Biscuits and Dominoes aren't interchangeable — biscuits run #0/#10/#20 in compressed beech, Dominoes run metric cutter widths on an entirely different system.
Explainers
Board Feet Vs Linear Feet Vs Square Feet
Board feet, linear feet, and square feet answer different buying questions — which unit fits which material, so a price doesn't come out wrong by a real margin.
Miter Angles For Common Polygons
The one-line formula for the miter angle of any regular polygon, derived from first principles, so boxes and segmented rings never need a lookup table.
How To Calculate Lumber Cost Per Board Foot
Multiplying board feet by price per board foot is only the first step — the extra factors that separate a yard's price sheet from what lands on your receipt.
Compound Miter Angles For Sloped Work
When a frame's sides lean instead of standing flat, one saw setting isn't enough — how miter and bevel angles combine for flared, raked, and sloped-sided work.
How Much Does Plywood Weigh
Plywood's weight comes from two numbers its label doesn't give straight: actual sanded thickness and a density that varies by species far more than lumber.
Wood Movement By Species Quick Reference
Tangential and radial shrinkage percentages predict how much a species moves with humidity — the reference behind why some woods stay flat and others split.
Reading A Cut List And Minimizing Waste
A cut-list optimizer is solving a real, well-studied packing problem, not guessing — what it's actually computing so its output can be read, not just trusted.
Green Vs Kiln Dried Lumber And Moisture Content
Green and kiln-dried describe where a board started on its moisture journey, not where it ends up in your shop — what separates the two and why that matters.
Flat Sawn Vs Quarter Sawn And Movement
Two boards from the same log can move to different degrees under identical humidity — the whole difference traces back to how growth rings meet the wide face.
How To Measure Humidity In Your Shop
Movement calculations are only as good as the humidity numbers behind them — what a shop actually needs to measure, and why placement beats instrument accuracy.
Converting Board Feet To Project Cost
Turning a cut list's board-foot total into an honest project budget takes more than one multiplication once several species and real waste are on the table.
Miter Vs Bevel Angle Explained
Miter and bevel adjust two different saw axes, and mixing up which one is dialed in is how a joint ends up wrong even with the right number dialed elsewhere.
Segmented Turning Angle Basics
A segmented-turning ring uses the identical miter-angle arithmetic as a flat frame, carried around a full circle of wedge-shaped staves instead of four corners.