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Olivewood — Density, Movement, Workability & Cost

Olivewood comes from orchard trees, so you buy short, crooked billets full of included bark rather than clean boards — and it checks badly if dried too fast.

Olea europaea · also sold as olive, European olivewood, Mediterranean olive

Density
61.2 lb/ft³
980 kg/m³ at 12% MC
Janka hardness
2710 lbf
12055 N
Radial shrinkage
4.9%
coefficient 0.1633
Tangential shrinkage
7.7%
coefficient 0.2567
T/R ratio
1.6
relatively stable
Volumetric
12.8%
green to oven-dry
Typical cost
$30.00/bf
exotic tier
Origin
Imported
Mediterranean basin
Type
Hardwood

You don't buy olivewood (Olea europaea) by the board — you buy it by the blank, and that's not a stylistic choice, it's a structural fact about the tree. Olive trees are grown for fruit, not timber, so what reaches a woodworker comes from orchard trees taken out of production, short and crooked with a lifetime of pruning wounds and included bark baked into every log.

An orchard tree's wood, sold accordingly

At 61.2 lb/ft³ and 2,710 lbf on the Janka scale, olivewood is dense, oily, and beautifully figured, with dark streaks running through a warm cream ground. It turns superbly and burnishes to a natural shine without much abrasive help, but it checks badly if dried too fast — a real risk given how short and already-stressed most olivewood billets are before drying even starts.

Movement, and what a typical turning blank weighs

Radial shrinkage of 4.9% against a tangential figure of 7.7% gives a 1.6 ratio, reasonably contained. A 4"-wide board moving from an 11% moisture content to a dry 6% loses about 0.051" (1.3mm) across its width; other blank widths run through the wood movement calculator. A 2"-thick, 4"-wide, 8"-long bowl or utensil blank weighs about 2.3 lb at olivewood's dense milled weight — the wood weight calculator covers other blank sizes.

Gluing an oily wood, and a finish that needs almost nothing

Given the natural oil content, a solvent wipe and epoxy are the sensible approach for anything structural. Olivewood needs almost no finish at all beyond what the lathe itself provides — a friction polish or wax is the traditional, correct treatment, and it's genuinely hard to improve on with a film finish anyway.

Durability, cost, and a genuinely specific market

The heartwood is moderately durable, resisting insects better than the pale sapwood does. It typically runs $30 per board foot, placing it in this site's exotic tier — priced for a market that buys by the blank rather than the board foot in practice. Turnery and bowls, kitchen utensils, knife handles, inlay, and small boxes round out its markets — every one scaled to work within the short, irregular dimensions olivewood actually offers.

Buying blanks, not boards

Anyone shopping for olivewood should expect to select individual blanks rather than order dimensional lumber the way they would for oak or walnut — a supplier who sells olivewood by the board foot from long, straight stock is describing a different product than what the species genuinely offers, and a buyer should ask directly about typical blank sizes before committing to a project scaled around this wood.

What people actually ask about olivewood

Does olivewood ever get grown as a dedicated timber crop anywhere, separate from orchard removal, given how prized the figure is? Not at any meaningful commercial scale — the economics don't favour it, since a fruit-bearing tree earns income for decades before it's ever worth more as timber, so essentially the entire global olivewood supply still depends on orchards eventually being retired rather than trees planted specifically to be milled.

Is olivewood safe to use for kitchen utensils and cutting boards? Yes, and it's a traditional, popular choice for exactly that use — its dense, tight grain and natural oils make it reasonably water-resistant and hygienic with normal care, though like any wood utensil it benefits from periodic oiling rather than being run through a dishwasher.

Is there a way to tell before drying whether a specific olivewood billet is likely to be badly internally stressed from its pruning history? Not reliably from the outside — the stress comes from the tree's growth pattern over years, not something visible on a fresh-cut face, so most turners treat every olivewood billet as a genuine checking risk regardless of how sound it looks, rather than trying to sort "safe" blanks from "risky" ones before drying begins.

There's no olivewood entry in the USDA Forest Products Laboratory's Table 4-4, so density, Janka hardness and shrinkage above are The Wood Database's own 12%-moisture-content figures; nearly all commercial olivewood comes from orchard trees retired from fruit production. Olive cultivation itself stretches back several thousand years around the Mediterranean, which is part of why so much available olivewood carries visible evidence of generations of grafting and orchard management rather than the clean growth rings of a forest-grown timber species.

Working with Olivewood

At the bench

Comes from orchard trees, which means short, crooked, knotty billets full of included bark and the occasional pruning wound — you buy it by the blank, not the board. The wood itself is dense, oily and beautifully figured, with dark streaks running through a cream ground. It turns superbly and burnishes without abrasive, but it checks badly if dried fast.

Glue-up

Oily. Solvent wipe and epoxy for anything structural.

Finishing

Needs almost nothing; a friction polish or wax on the lathe is traditional and correct.

Durability

Moderately durable, and the heartwood resists insects better than the pale sapwood.

Commonly used forturnery and bowls · kitchen utensils · knife handles · inlay · small boxes

Health and handling

Recorded skin and respiratory irritant; olivewood dust causes dermatitis in some workers.

Where these figures come fromShrinkage figures on this page come from the USDA Forest Service Forest Products Laboratory's Wood Handbook (General Technical Report FPL-GTR-190, 2010) - Table 4-3 for North American species and Table 4-4 for imported ones. It is a US federal government publication, it is in the public domain, and it is the reference most other woodworking sites are quietly copying. For the handful of woods those tables do not cover, we use The Wood Database, which reproduces the same FPL figures species by species; every entry says which source its numbers came from. The movement coefficients are not a separate measurement. They are derived from the shrinkage figures the standard way - divide the total green-to-oven-dry shrinkage by 30, the nominal fibre saturation point - so that you can multiply width by the change in moisture content and get an answer in inches. Two honest limits are worth knowing. Shrinkage is not perfectly linear with moisture content, and the fibre saturation point is not exactly 30% for every species; it runs from about 26% to about 34%. And every figure here is a species average drawn from tested samples, while the board on your bench is one tree from one site. Use these numbers to size an expansion gap or choose between two woods, not to predict a specific board to the thousandth.

This species: shrinkage — The Wood Database (shrinkage), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook; density — The Wood Database (average dried weight at 12% MC), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook; hardness — The Wood Database (Janka side hardness at 12% MC), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook. Not in FPL Table 4-4; figures from The Wood Database. Nearly all commercial olivewood comes from orchard trees taken out of fruit production.

Prices are 2026 US retail estimates for 4/4 rough stock in hobbyist quantities and vary considerably by region, supplier and grade.