Honey Locust — Density, Movement, Workability & Cost
Among domestic hardwoods of comparable hardness only black locust moves less, so honey locust holds a glued-up panel flatter than its 1,580 lbf suggests.
Gleditsia triacanthos · also sold as thorny locust, sweet locust
- Density
- 47 lb/ft³
- 753 kg/m³ at 12% MC
- Janka hardness
- 1580 lbf
- 7028 N
- Radial shrinkage
- 4.2%
- coefficient 0.14
- Tangential shrinkage
- 6.6%
- coefficient 0.22
- T/R ratio
- 1.6
- relatively stable
- Volumetric
- 10.8%
- green to oven-dry
- Typical cost
- $8.00/bf
- moderate tier
- Origin
- Domestic
- Central and eastern United States
- Type
- Hardwood
Ask for locust at most yards and you'll need to specify which one — honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos) and black locust get confused constantly despite being genuinely different woods, and the mix-up matters because their working properties and their intended uses diverge in real ways.
Pink, lustrous, and unusually stable for its density
At 47 lb/ft³ and 1,580 lbf on the Janka scale, honey locust is a hard, dense wood with a pinker, more lustrous appearance than black locust's yellower tone. What stands out numerically is its volumetric shrinkage — 10.8%, low for a wood this dense — which means it holds dimension better in service than most domestic hardwoods of comparable hardness. It turns beautifully and polishes to a natural sheen without much help from a finish.
Movement, and a typical turned-blank weight
Tangential shrinkage of 6.6% against a radial figure of 4.2% gives a 1.6 ratio, comfortably under this site's 2.0 movement-prone line. A 10"-wide flatsawn panel, computed from honey locust's own tangential coefficient, gives up about 0.132" (3.4mm) across its width on the swing from 12% down to a dry 6% moisture content; the wood movement calculator handles other widths. A typical bowl-roughing blank, 2" thick and 8"x8", weighs about 3.5 lb at this species' milled density — check other blank sizes on the wood weight calculator.
The real obstacle isn't the wood, it's the log
Gluing is straightforward, though the dense late-growth wood benefits from a scuffed surface before adhesive goes on. Finishing needs almost nothing — the wood's natural lustre means a thin oil or wax coat is often enough to bring out the colour fully. The genuine limiting factor with honey locust is supply: it's an urban and hedgerow tree more often than a forest-grown timber species, so boards tend to be short and frequently include bark pockets from the tree's often-crooked growth habit.
Durability, cost, and the two locusts' price gap
Honey locust's heartwood is moderately durable — respectable, though well short of black locust's exceptional rot resistance. At roughly $8 per board foot it's priced in this site's moderate tier. Turnery, furniture, fence posts, pallets, and flooring are its main uses; the fence-post use trades on that moderate durability rather than the near-permanent resistance black locust offers for the same job.
The two locusts, told apart
Black locust is the one to reach for when rot resistance is the deciding factor — its heartwood rivals teak and genuinely outlasts honey locust outdoors. Honey locust's advantage is appearance and stability: the pinker colour, the natural lustre, and the low volumetric shrinkage make it the better choice for turned or indoor furniture work where honey locust's more modest durability isn't actually being tested.
What people actually ask about honey locust
Is there a working-feel or weight difference between honey locust and black locust that would help identify a board beyond just colour? Not a reliable one — the two overlap closely enough in density and hardness at the bench that colour and the specific project the seller says it's intended for are more useful clues than trying to judge species by feel or weight alone.
Is honey locust safe to burn or use for smoking food, given the tree's notorious thorns? The thorns are a hazard during harvesting and handling, not a property of the finished wood — cured honey locust lumber carries no residual toxicity from the thorns and is unrelated to any food-safety concern.
Does the short-board limitation mean honey locust is a poor choice for anything beyond turning and small furniture parts? It rules out long structural spans or wide single-board panels, but for turned bowls, small furniture components, and accent pieces where the natural board length is already adequate, the supply limitation doesn't meaningfully constrain the project.
Does honey locust need a topcoat, or is a bare oiled surface durable enough for furniture? For anything handled regularly, a wiped oil finish or a thin oil-varnish blend protects the surface adequately while still showing off the natural lustre; a piece that will see heavy daily contact, like a tabletop, benefits from a harder film finish over the oil rather than oil alone.
Honey locust's shrinkage numbers are Table 4-3 of the USDA Forest Products Laboratory's Wood Handbook (FPL-GTR-190, 2010); density and hardness are The Wood Database's own 12%-MC testing.
Working with Honey Locust
At the bench
Frequently confused with black locust and genuinely different: pinker, more lustrous, and with a lower volumetric shrinkage than almost any domestic wood of its density. It turns beautifully and polishes to a natural sheen. Supply is the problem — it is an urban and hedgerow tree, so boards are short and often full of included bark.
Glue-up
Glues well, though the dense late growth wants a scuffed surface.
Finishing
Naturally lustrous; a thin oil or wax is often enough.
Durability
Moderately durable heartwood — respectable but not in black locust's class.
Commonly used forturnery · furniture · fence posts · pallets · flooring
Where these figures come fromShrinkage figures on this page come from the USDA Forest Service Forest Products Laboratory's Wood Handbook (General Technical Report FPL-GTR-190, 2010) - Table 4-3 for North American species and Table 4-4 for imported ones. It is a US federal government publication, it is in the public domain, and it is the reference most other woodworking sites are quietly copying. For the handful of woods those tables do not cover, we use The Wood Database, which reproduces the same FPL figures species by species; every entry says which source its numbers came from. The movement coefficients are not a separate measurement. They are derived from the shrinkage figures the standard way - divide the total green-to-oven-dry shrinkage by 30, the nominal fibre saturation point - so that you can multiply width by the change in moisture content and get an answer in inches. Two honest limits are worth knowing. Shrinkage is not perfectly linear with moisture content, and the fibre saturation point is not exactly 30% for every species; it runs from about 26% to about 34%. And every figure here is a species average drawn from tested samples, while the board on your bench is one tree from one site. Use these numbers to size an expansion gap or choose between two woods, not to predict a specific board to the thousandth.
This species: shrinkage — USDA FPL Wood Handbook (FPL-GTR-190, 2010), Chapter 4, Table 4-3; density — The Wood Database (average dried weight at 12% MC), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook; hardness — The Wood Database (Janka side hardness at 12% MC), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook.
Prices are 2026 US retail estimates for 4/4 rough stock in hobbyist quantities and vary considerably by region, supplier and grade.