KerfMathSupport Us

Bloodwood — Density, Movement, Workability & Cost

Bloodwood holds its red color better than padauk does, darkening only slightly instead of turning brown — the dust stains everything nearby red in the meantime.

Brosimum rubescens · also sold as satine, muirapiranga, cardinal wood, satine rubane

Density
66 lb/ft³
1057 kg/m³ at 12% MC
Janka hardness
2900 lbf
12900 N
Radial shrinkage
4.6%
coefficient 0.1533
Tangential shrinkage
7%
coefficient 0.2333
T/R ratio
1.5
relatively stable
Volumetric
11.7%
green to oven-dry
Typical cost
$26.00/bf
premium tier
Origin
Imported
Tropical South America
Type
Hardwood

Every red wood eventually browns under UV light except this one, or close to it — bloodwood (Brosimum rubescens) holds its vivid red colour far better than padauk or purpleheart do, darkening only modestly over years rather than shifting to an entirely different hue the way its red-toned competitors on the exotic-wood shelf tend to.

Dense, brittle, and the reddest wood in trade

At 66 lb/ft³ and 2,900 lbf on the Janka scale, bloodwood is very dense and genuinely brittle — it chips at the edges of a cut and splinters readily when routed against the grain, a real contrast to a dense-but-tough species like African blackwood. Turners consistently love it for the colour payoff at the lathe; hand-tool users mostly don't, since the brittleness fights a plane or chisel more than the raw hardness alone would suggest.

Movement in narrow, accent-scale applications

Radial shrinkage of 4.6% against a tangential figure of 7% gives a 1.5 ratio, reasonably contained — not that movement is the reason most buyers reach for this wood at only 4" wide, a typical width for bloodwood used as inlay or banding. Even so, that strip loses about 0.047" (1.2mm) across its width moving from an 11% moisture content down to a dry 6%; a wider piece runs through the wood movement calculator. The same accent stock, 1/2" thick and 2 feet long, weighs about 1.8 lb — the wood weight calculator covers other sizes.

Gluing carefully, and a dust that stains everything

Gluing is acceptable once the surface is freshly machined, standard practice for a dense tropical species. It polishes to a natural gloss with minimal effort. The real working hazard here isn't structural — it's the dust, which stains everything it touches red, including glue lines, adjacent light-coloured woods on the same bench, and skin. A dedicated workspace or careful containment matters more with bloodwood than with a less pigmented species.

Durability, cost, and where the colour retention pays off

Bloodwood is very durable and insect resistant. $26 per board foot puts it in this site's premium tier. Turnery, inlay and banding, knife scales, furniture accents, and musical instruments round out its markets — every one of them chosen specifically because the colour actually lasts, unlike the fading or browning that defines so many other red and orange exotic species.

The red-wood comparison worth making explicitly

Against purpleheart, whose famous violet colour is explicitly temporary and expected to fade, bloodwood's red is the more durable design choice for a piece meant to look the same in ten years as it did on day one. Against African padauk, whose bright orange-red fades toward a muddy purple-brown, bloodwood again holds its colour with meaningfully less drift — the tradeoff is bloodwood's greater brittleness and higher price relative to either alternative.

What people actually ask about bloodwood

Does a UV-blocking finish make bloodwood's colour retention essentially permanent, given it already fades less than purpleheart or padauk? It gets close but not fully permanent — a UV-inhibiting topcoat slows the modest gradual deepening even further, though no finish available to a small shop stops UV-driven colour change completely on any wood, bloodwood included.

Why does bloodwood chip so easily at the edges compared to other dense hardwoods? Its brittleness is a real structural property distinct from hardness — a wood can be very hard (resistant to denting) while still being brittle (prone to fracturing rather than flexing under a sharp, localized force like a router bit or a chisel corner), and bloodwood sits firmly in that combination.

How do I keep bloodwood dust from staining my other wood species on the same project? Work bloodwood in a separate session or dedicated area where possible, clean the bench and tools thoroughly between species, and consider a dust barrier if bloodwood and a pale wood are being finished in close proximity on the same build.

The Wood Database is the source for bloodwood's density, Janka hardness and shrinkage — this species isn't tabulated in the USDA Forest Products Laboratory's own Table 4-4. Bloodwood belongs to Moraceae, the fig and mulberry family — an unusual botanical home for a wood this dense, since most of that family runs soft and fast-growing.

Working with Bloodwood

At the bench

Holds its red better than almost any other red wood — it darkens somewhat but does not go brown the way padauk does. It is very dense and brittle, so it chips at the edges of a cut and splinters when routed against the grain. Turners love it and hand-tool users mostly do not.

Glue-up

Glues acceptably once freshly surfaced.

Finishing

Polishes to a natural gloss. The dust stains everything red — including your glue lines and light-coloured woods next to it on the bench.

Durability

Very durable and insect resistant.

Commonly used forturnery · inlay and banding · knife scales · furniture accents · musical instruments

Health and handling

Recorded irritant; the dust causes respiratory and skin irritation and stains skin.

Where these figures come fromShrinkage figures on this page come from the USDA Forest Service Forest Products Laboratory's Wood Handbook (General Technical Report FPL-GTR-190, 2010) - Table 4-3 for North American species and Table 4-4 for imported ones. It is a US federal government publication, it is in the public domain, and it is the reference most other woodworking sites are quietly copying. For the handful of woods those tables do not cover, we use The Wood Database, which reproduces the same FPL figures species by species; every entry says which source its numbers came from. The movement coefficients are not a separate measurement. They are derived from the shrinkage figures the standard way - divide the total green-to-oven-dry shrinkage by 30, the nominal fibre saturation point - so that you can multiply width by the change in moisture content and get an answer in inches. Two honest limits are worth knowing. Shrinkage is not perfectly linear with moisture content, and the fibre saturation point is not exactly 30% for every species; it runs from about 26% to about 34%. And every figure here is a species average drawn from tested samples, while the board on your bench is one tree from one site. Use these numbers to size an expansion gap or choose between two woods, not to predict a specific board to the thousandth.

This species: shrinkage — The Wood Database (shrinkage), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook; density — The Wood Database (average dried weight at 12% MC), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook; hardness — The Wood Database (Janka side hardness at 12% MC), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook. Not in FPL Table 4-4; figures from The Wood Database.

Prices are 2026 US retail estimates for 4/4 rough stock in hobbyist quantities and vary considerably by region, supplier and grade.