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American Sycamore — Density, Movement, Workability & Cost

Quartersawn sycamore is the only reason to buy sycamore — the enormous rays produce a freckled lace figure sold as domestic lacewood; flatsawn, it's just bland.

Platanus occidentalis · also sold as buttonwood, American plane, lacewood (domestic)

Density
34 lb/ft³
545 kg/m³ at 12% MC
Janka hardness
770 lbf
3425 N
Radial shrinkage
5%
coefficient 0.1667
Tangential shrinkage
8.4%
coefficient 0.28
T/R ratio
1.7
relatively stable
Volumetric
14.1%
green to oven-dry
Typical cost
$6.00/bf
moderate tier
Origin
Domestic
Eastern United States
Type
Hardwood

Cut American sycamore (Platanus occidentalis) flatsawn and you get a bland, unremarkable board that warps more than it should. Cut the exact same log quartersawn and you get a dense, freckled lace pattern striking enough that it's sold commercially as domestic lacewood — same tree, two entirely different products, and the difference is purely in how the sawyer orients the cut.

Rays are the whole story here

At 34 lb/ft³ and 770 lbf on the Janka scale, sycamore is unremarkable in raw working terms — moderate density, moderate hardness, nothing that stands out. What makes it worth specifying by name is the ray structure: unusually large medullary rays that, when a board is cut so the growth rings run roughly perpendicular to the wide face, produce that dense freckled figure. Cut any other way, those same rays contribute almost nothing visible.

Movement on the axis that actually matters for this wood

Since quartersawn is the cut anyone buying sycamore for figure actually wants, the radial number is the one worth knowing: 5% radial shrinkage against 8.4% tangential gives a 1.7 ratio. A 12"-wide quartersawn panel moving from a 12% moisture content down to a dry 6% loses about 0.12" (3mm) across its width — noticeably calmer than the same panel would move flatsawn. Run other widths through the wood movement calculator. A 3/4"-thick, 12"-wide, 4-foot quartersawn panelling board weighs about 8.5 lb; other panel sizes run through the wood weight calculator.

Fighting the grain, or getting out of its way

Interlocked grain means a hand plane tears out reliably on sycamore, regardless of which way you cut it — a scraper or a sander is the honest route to a finished surface rather than persisting with a plane and hoping. Gluing is actually helped by that same interlock, which resists splitting along a glued joint the way straighter-grained woods sometimes don't. The ray fleck that makes quartersawn sycamore worth buying disappears completely under pigment stain, so a clear finish or a transparent dye is the only sensible choice if the figure is the point of the purchase.

Durability, cost, and the split market

Sycamore is perishable and spalts quickly if a log sits before milling — a trait that ruins some boards and, for turners specifically seeking spalted material, makes others. At roughly $6 per board foot, plain flatsawn sycamore is inexpensive, while figured quartersawn "lacewood" material commands a real premium once a mill has bothered to cut it that way. Quartersawn panelling, butcher blocks, drawer sides, veneer, and boxes are its main uses — the butcher-block use draws on plain flatsawn stock, where the figure doesn't matter and the working properties are what count.

The lacewood confusion, resolved

American sycamore is genuinely different from Australian silky oak and several South American species also sold under the "lacewood" trade name — all of them share large-ray figure on a quartered face, but they're unrelated botanically and differ in hardness and colour. A buyer who specifically wants the domestic species should ask for American sycamore or American plane by name rather than trusting "lacewood" alone.

What people actually ask about American sycamore

Is there a way to check whether a sycamore board is genuinely quartersawn before buying, short of trusting the label? Look at the end grain for the ring orientation, and check the rough-sawn face itself — on sycamore specifically, the ray fleck should already be faintly visible before any finish goes on if the cut is genuinely right, which is a more reliable check than any grading label a supplier attaches.

Is spalted sycamore safe to use, or is the discoloration a sign of rot that weakens the wood? The dark lines are fungal activity, and heavily spalted wood is genuinely softer and more fragile than sound wood — light spalting is mostly cosmetic, but heavily spalted material should be treated as decorative rather than structural.

Does a dye instead of a pigment stain preserve more of the ray fleck if a colour change is still wanted on quartersawn sycamore? Yes, meaningfully more — a dye penetrates without the opaque particles that bury figure the way pigment stain does, so a builder who wants both a colour shift and the fleck visible has a real option that plain pigment staining doesn't offer.

Sycamore's shrinkage percentages trace to Table 4-3 of the USDA Forest Products Laboratory's Wood Handbook (FPL-GTR-190, 2010), and its density and Janka hardness are The Wood Database's own 12%-moisture-content readings.

Working with American Sycamore

At the bench

Quartersawn sycamore is the only reason to buy sycamore: the rays are enormous and produce a dense freckled lace figure that gets it sold as domestic lacewood. Flatsawn, it is bland and it warps. Interlocked grain means the plane tears out; a scraper or a sander is the honest route to a finished surface.

Glue-up

Bonds well; the interlocked grain that ruins planing helps a glue joint resist splitting.

Finishing

The ray fleck disappears under pigment stain. Clear finish or dye only.

Durability

Perishable and quick to spalt.

Commonly used forquartersawn panelling · butcher blocks · drawer sides · veneer · boxes

Where these figures come fromShrinkage figures on this page come from the USDA Forest Service Forest Products Laboratory's Wood Handbook (General Technical Report FPL-GTR-190, 2010) - Table 4-3 for North American species and Table 4-4 for imported ones. It is a US federal government publication, it is in the public domain, and it is the reference most other woodworking sites are quietly copying. For the handful of woods those tables do not cover, we use The Wood Database, which reproduces the same FPL figures species by species; every entry says which source its numbers came from. The movement coefficients are not a separate measurement. They are derived from the shrinkage figures the standard way - divide the total green-to-oven-dry shrinkage by 30, the nominal fibre saturation point - so that you can multiply width by the change in moisture content and get an answer in inches. Two honest limits are worth knowing. Shrinkage is not perfectly linear with moisture content, and the fibre saturation point is not exactly 30% for every species; it runs from about 26% to about 34%. And every figure here is a species average drawn from tested samples, while the board on your bench is one tree from one site. Use these numbers to size an expansion gap or choose between two woods, not to predict a specific board to the thousandth.

This species: shrinkage — USDA FPL Wood Handbook (FPL-GTR-190, 2010), Chapter 4, Table 4-3; density — The Wood Database (average dried weight at 12% MC), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook; hardness — The Wood Database (Janka side hardness at 12% MC), citing USDA FPL Wood Handbook.

Prices are 2026 US retail estimates for 4/4 rough stock in hobbyist quantities and vary considerably by region, supplier and grade.